Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

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  • Jundo
    Treeleaf Founder and Priest
    • Apr 2006
    • 40378

    #16
    Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

    Originally posted by tonyyeung
    Dear taigu sensei:
    thank you for your answer, now i really know what is it now. And i know you practice takuhatsu in japan, i hope one day i can do the same thing too.

    gassho, tony yeung
    Hi Tony,

    I have not read this article for a long time, but it compares the Kesa tradition in various sects and countries. You may find it interesting (and more information than you really need) :-)

    http://www.urbandharma.org/udharma10/robe.html

    Someone from Europe once told me that only "teachers" are to have rings in their Rakusu, and that certain colors mean certain ranks (like you say). We do not follow that ... we are "people of no rank" 8)

    When I used to live in Beijing, I remember learning that during the Cultural Revolution, everyone wore a "Mao Jacket" ... because all were equal. But, really, the higher people had more pockets!



    In the current Soto sect in Japan, many Japanese do not receive any Rakusu when they receive Jukai (the Precepts). Or, they receive a slightly smaller version than a priest's Rakusu. The "Wagesa" in the picture you posted is often given to all parishioners of a particular temple without any particular ceremony being required, and they wear it at many group functions (such as group bus trips and such).

    Kesa/Rakusu in Japan (and other countries too) have also gotten to be much too fancy and ridiculous, almost like a fashion show. In fact ...

    TOKYO -- Japanese monks and nuns held a fashion show - replete with rap music and a catwalk - at a major Tokyo temple Saturday to promote Buddhism.
    http://www.chinadaily.net/world/2007-12 ... 324057.htm

    It is silly. Listen to Taigu ... and keep it simple is style, rich in meaning.

    Gassho, Jundo
    ALL OF LIFE IS OUR TEMPLE

    Comment

    • Jinho

      #17
      Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

      Originally posted by Taigu
      Hi all,

      If you don't mind, a quick word about colours. As I said previously, pitch black is not an option, this is not accepted in the Nyoho-e tradition although you'll find it all over Japan for novice monks. The colours we accept are dark brown, dark blue, grey and that's it. You may also dye the material mixing shades.
      I strongly recommand people to seek for Jinho'advice for anything to do with the needle. Jinho, are you around? Could you please remind us of your wonderful instructions as too how to dye fabric? And give everybody excellent guidelines?

      Thank you all, Dosho and Shohei, welcome in the sewing sensei team.

      gassho


      Taigu
      HI all,

      Sorry, been busy, cat very ill......

      Dying fabric -

      Wash (with detergent) and dry your fabric. This is very important, you want to wash out any finish they have put on the fabric (to keep it looking nice and crisp on the bolt in the store).

      I have used Rit brand dye, boil it on stove, use a couple cups of salt, stir a lot, then rinse well (hot - then warm then cold water). However, I am sure it is 100% polluting chemicals, so here is a nicer way to dull down a fabric if needed: Brew black tea very strong, boil fabric a few minutes in the tea, the brown colour of the tea will dull down the fabric, then rinse, dry in clothes dryer (this helps to set the tint) and steam iron (this also helps to set the tint, also, although I haven't tried it, put a cup of salt in the tea bath (stir to desolve it) as this might help set the tint ("setting" means getting the dye to adhere to the fabric so it doens't wash out so much - of course, you will then hand wash your kesa, dry getnly in dryer and steam iron. You can also hang your fabric out in the sun and it will get sun-bleached (this will dull the color but also lighten it). DO NOT do this if you are using silk as it will dry out the silk and the silk will crack.

      For questions, Please PM me (my email box will get a notice that your have sent a PM).

      Always OBSESSIVELY helpfully yours (really it is not an exageration)
      gassho,
      rowan/jinho

      Comment

      • Shohei
        Member
        • Oct 2007
        • 2854

        #18
        Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

        Hi Phoenix
        It just got left off the list

        Originally posted by "From PDF File available [url=http://jundotreeleaf.googlepages.com/TREELEAFRAKUSUSEWINGGUIDE0917PDF.pdf
        here[/url] on the Sew-a-long thread from last years Jukai forum
        ":8prr57y8]• As to color: Please avoid bright primary colors (such as blue, yellow, red, white and pure black), and select ‘muddy’ colors such as dark brown or dark green (a nice Treeleaf color!), very dark blue or perhaps blue-ish black.
        Gassho
        Shohei

        Comment

        • Jinho

          #19
          Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

          Originally posted by PhoenixFiresky
          I'm very sorry about your cat. I lost my kitty partner of 15 years a few years back and still miss her. I hope everything works out well for you and yours.

          In the video on sewing the rakusu, the color dark green was mentioned as being particularly appropriate for TreeLeafers. But here, we're being told that only brown, dark blue and grey are acceptable.

          Is dark green now unacceptable, or did it simply get left off the list?

          Gassho,
          Phoenix
          Greetings!

          Thank you for asking, kitty is fine. And thank you for asking about dark green since that is my choice.

          cheers,
          rowan/jinho

          Comment

          • Dosho
            Member
            • Jun 2008
            • 5784

            #20
            Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

            Hi all,

            Just finished attaching the fourth stripe...still can't seem to get a good shot of the stiching.

            Will be working on it during Ango...will post updates if people find them helpful or interesting.

            Gassho,
            Dosho

            Attached files

            Comment

            • Shohei
              Member
              • Oct 2007
              • 2854

              #21
              Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

              Looks perfect! Please do keep updates!

              Gassho, Shohei

              Comment

              • Taigu
                Blue Mountain White Clouds Hermitage Priest
                • Aug 2008
                • 2710

                #22
                Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                looks great Dosho, really great!!!

                gassho


                Taigu

                Comment

                • Jen
                  Member
                  • Feb 2008
                  • 166

                  #23
                  Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                  If you would like to dye light colored fabric with natural dyes, there are excellent instructions and what plant to use for what color at Pioneer Thinking that are very simple. I have used them myself several times:
                  http://www.pioneerthinking.com/naturaldyes.html

                  Plant dyes come out duller than the color of the dye bath and are very 'earthy.' Inexpensive and simple to do as well.
                  Joshin
                  Not all those that wander are lost- JRR Tolkien

                  Comment

                  • Taigu
                    Blue Mountain White Clouds Hermitage Priest
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 2710

                    #24
                    Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                    Thank you so much, Joshin, this is a real priceless information...

                    A few years ago Dai E Bennage, abbess of Mt Equity wrote the following email to me:

                    (...)I first made a robe for my teacher from some of this donated silk. Being from a poor temple, he'd given me his colored robe when I was given Transmission. The material I had was white. I did not have money to have it dyed. So I went on the alms round for seven months asking housewives if they might have some onion skins to spare. When I had the proper weight of onion skins (LOTS of onion skins!) I dyed the cloth with them, and set the color with the mordent of rusty nails. I boiled it outdoors with a long stove pipe supported by a step ladder, pointing the smoke away from the dye vat! It turned out to be "mokuren", like Soto robes generally are. I would never have had the courage to take on this challenge, except for being poor, and because the result was to be "mottled". How could I lose? "

                    Yes, if you can do it, dying fabric with plants and minerals gives a much better shade. I have just bought a nyoho-e kesa made of hemp that was sewn in the second half of the 18 th century, the colour is beautiful and very light.

                    gassho

                    Taigu

                    Comment

                    • Jinyu
                      Member
                      • May 2009
                      • 768

                      #25
                      Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                      Hi Taigu!
                      I've got a question about rakusu sewing and Jukai ceremony, I don't know if it's the right place to ask it but ... :roll:

                      In the past, I didn't take the precepts, mostly because I didn't "feel" anything with the master. But this year, I really like the very special adventure we are all living together, and I feel that I want to commit myself to this sangha!
                      So I think I'll take the precepts in Treeleaf sangha.
                      But I've got a little question to ask you.
                      I began sewing a rakusu in June in case I take Jukai this year. It could seem a bit strange, but I do so every year. That's the third one I make, but this time I made it dark grey. (Usually in the Zen sangha in Brussels its black -> AZI...).
                      The "problem" is that I began to sew this rakusu in June because I don't think It'll be possible for me to achieve a rakusu from october to december because of all the work I'll need to do in different schools all around the country.
                      And than, I already finish the rakusu... but the idea was to share it with folks doing the same... :?

                      Do you think I can keep the one I made these months for the jukai ceremony, or I HAVE to sew another one during next months with the risk to don't finish it for the ceremony?

                      Personaly, I don't care to sew another one (as a lot of folks, sewing has been a kind of revelation... I just love it!) but I really don't think It'll be possible to achieve it in time...

                      I'm going to put some photos of the rakusu with this message, for the moment I just have one photo in this computer ( I'm at my parents house) ., It's made with a fabric from a cotton "robe" from the late fifties I found in a "marché aux puces" in Brussels. And I sew the broken needle in the maneki in green, as I've seen some folks do it here at Treeleaf.

                      http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_EnCyZxKDk3...anthracite.jpg I take this picture when I was finishing the frame, at this level I had to correct some things, I had a problem of symetry and a small problem with a left corner...grrr it's a part of the beauty of sewing, but it's always a bit difficult (for the ego) to repeat something you just finish.... I'll put some photos of the realization and the achieved work Sunday or Monday (when I get an Internet connection).

                      If it's not the right place to ask it, just say and I'll delete this message and send you a private message :wink:

                      Gassho,

                      Luis
                      Jinyu aka Luis aka Silly guy from Brussels

                      Comment

                      • Jundo
                        Treeleaf Founder and Priest
                        • Apr 2006
                        • 40378

                        #26
                        Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                        Originally posted by Luis

                        Do you think I can keep the one I made these months for the jukai ceremony, or I HAVE to sew another one during next months with the risk to don't finish it for the ceremony?

                        Personaly, I don't care to sew another one (as a lot of folks, sewing has been a kind of revelation... I just love it!) but I really don't think It'll be possible to achieve it in time...

                        Hi Luis,

                        Pending Taigu's comment, I will just say that if you have already sewn a Rakusu (in fact, 3 Rakusu ! ) ... and especially as you do not have the time ... no, you are not asked to sew another as part of the Jukai.

                        But please, if you have the time, bring your experience of doing so into helping others around here who are doing their first.

                        Gassho, Jundo
                        ALL OF LIFE IS OUR TEMPLE

                        Comment

                        • Jinyu
                          Member
                          • May 2009
                          • 768

                          #27
                          Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                          Originally posted by Jundo
                          But please, if you have the time, bring your experience of doing so into helping others around here who are doing their first.
                          Thanks for answering so quickly!

                          In fact, not sharing the sewing with the other folks taking Jukai too was my main problem!
                          I'll be glad to share my litlle experience with you guys!

                          Gassho to all,

                          Luis
                          Jinyu aka Luis aka Silly guy from Brussels

                          Comment

                          • Taigu
                            Blue Mountain White Clouds Hermitage Priest
                            • Aug 2008
                            • 2710

                            #28
                            Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                            Hi Luis,

                            my answer is the same as Jundo's.
                            Don't worry. Just sew at your own rhythm.

                            Take care

                            gasho


                            Taigu

                            Comment

                            • Jinyu
                              Member
                              • May 2009
                              • 768

                              #29
                              Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                              Hi !

                              Thank you too Taigu!
                              I Think I'll probably begin another one because I just love it! :twisted:

                              Here are some photos of the making and the final rakusu.





                              And If I can give a sewing advice it will be : When you use an iron you don't know for the first time... Just put a fabric between the iron and your rakusu... because if you do not... it can burn... :roll:

                              Gassho to you guys,

                              Luis
                              Jinyu aka Luis aka Silly guy from Brussels

                              Comment

                              • Jinyu
                                Member
                                • May 2009
                                • 768

                                #30
                                Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                                Sorry I did a mistake! :?

                                Luis
                                Jinyu aka Luis aka Silly guy from Brussels

                                Comment

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