Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

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  • Shohei
    Member
    • Oct 2007
    • 2854

    Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

    Originally posted by Taigu
    Hi Taylor,

    Wait a bit, I am doing a guide again. And soon shooting vids.
    By the way, you can always get in touch with Shohei, my student. He wuill make it clear for you.

    gassho


    Taigu
    ^^ Yes! If anyone has any questions i will do my best to help out, PM/Email or skype and when possible. I am currently sewing so its very fresh in my mind.

    Gassho
    Shohei

    Comment

    • Shohei
      Member
      • Oct 2007
      • 2854

      Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

      Originally posted by Taylor
      Originally posted by Taigu
      Wait a bit
      Gassho, something I often need to hear :P

      The kesa seems to be starting its teaching process even before I have purchased the fabric. I caught myself planning on what to finish by when and this and that to make it easier for school and all of this nonsense. Not the point, as far as I can tell. The kesa is life, it is worn and sewn through easy times and through rough times, sunny days and rainy days. Not about the finished product, all about the journey through the sewing.

      Again, many gasshos to everyone who has undertaken this task.
      Taylor

      Indeed!

      Gassho

      Comment

      • Dosho
        Member
        • Jun 2008
        • 5784

        Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

        Originally posted by Taylor
        The kesa seems to be starting its teaching process even before I have purchased the fabric. I caught myself planning on what to finish by when and this and that to make it easier for school and all of this nonsense. Not the point, as far as I can tell. The kesa is life, it is worn and sewn through easy times and through rough times, sunny days and rainy days. Not about the finished product, all about the journey through the sewing.
        Hi Taylor,

        I did many of the same things when I started sewing the kesa and had to let go of all that...but it took a lot of time. And I'm still doing it! I admire the gusto with which you jumped into sewing the rakusu...reminds me of another sewer I know from here, but I would strongly recommend putting the kesa sewing aside until you have received jukai this winter. Of course that is just a fool's recommendation not knowing you or your circumstances quite yet...for all know it is exactly your path.

        In any event, many bows to you and to your practice.

        Gassho,
        Dosho

        Comment

        • Taylor
          Member
          • May 2010
          • 388

          Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

          Originally posted by Dosho
          Originally posted by Taylor
          The kesa seems to be starting its teaching process even before I have purchased the fabric. I caught myself planning on what to finish by when and this and that to make it easier for school and all of this nonsense. Not the point, as far as I can tell. The kesa is life, it is worn and sewn through easy times and through rough times, sunny days and rainy days. Not about the finished product, all about the journey through the sewing.
          Hi Taylor,

          I did many of the same things when I started sewing the kesa and had to let go of all that...but it took a lot of time. And I'm still doing it! I admire the gusto with which you jumped into sewing the rakusu...reminds me of another sewer I know from here, but I would strongly recommend putting the kesa sewing aside until you have received jukai this winter. Of course that is just a fool's recommendation not knowing you or your circumstances quite yet...for all know it is exactly your path.

          In any event, many bows to you and to your practice.

          Gassho,
          Dosho
          Thank you for the advice Dosho (and everyone else!). This was something I have been considering, actually. There is much preparation that occurs for Jukai and school alone is of primary importance (due to that wonderful $20,000/yr price tag it carries). I tend to live up in the clouds a bit when it comes to these sort of things, the romanticism of it all and what not, and need to come back down rather frequently. So I thank you for another anchoring comment

          I believe I will find the fabric and attempt to cut it. Working slowly. At school I often find myself just sitting around doing little but browsing facebook and the like so maybe this could be a better use of my time :P

          Gassho
          Gassho,
          Myoken
          [url:r05q3pze]http://staresatwalls.blogspot.com/[/url:r05q3pze]

          Comment

          • Jinyu
            Member
            • May 2009
            • 768

            Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

            Hi Taigu and everyone!
            I'm actually sewing a rakusu I would like to offer to a friend and as soon as I finish it (no hurry just the time it takes to do it well) I'll begin sewing kesa. But I prefer to wait for your written guide and I'll surely call Sohei for help on this too ;o)

            BTW thank you for sharing the joy of this wonderful path of the Buddha Kasaya! It is one of the common things in all buddhist tradition, and it is a very powerful practice and an help and "counselor" in so many ways! I'm also very touch when I think of the words of Sawaki Kodo : "we are the School of the Kesa", so touched when I think of this practice he succeed to re-establish. I can't forget about Jiun Sonja who dedicate his life to the "true kesa", in all the ancestors and patriarchs who dedicate their lives to this practice... The kesa is a living memory, the living and apparent garment of transmission who links us to Shakyamuni Buddha and to all our Buddhist fellows...

            Well, I hope my poor English doesn't ruin the point I'm trying to make...
            Sorry for this guys, but that thing is HUGE and just as it is, just a simple down to earth practice and so much more...

            Deep bows to every one of you,
            Luis-Jinyu
            Jinyu aka Luis aka Silly guy from Brussels

            Comment

            • Taylor
              Member
              • May 2010
              • 388

              Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

              Just a quick question: are the widths on all the patches supposed to be the same? Half of mine (ABC) are 38 cm and the other half (DEF) are 36cm. Is this correct?

              As a side note, I am spending the year collecting fabric from various places (friends, family, the rag pile in the garage) to begin sewing sometime next year. I don't know if it will take that long to gather the fabric, but I am doing it on donation only. There is a humbling sense of relying only on others for this. This Kesa, like all of life, must be done alone, but cannot be completed (or even begun) without the help of others. This is an exercise in humility and patience for me. I'm sure I will end up with more fabric than I need, that can be handled later (Many rakusu donations perhaps?)

              Gassho
              Gassho,
              Myoken
              [url:r05q3pze]http://staresatwalls.blogspot.com/[/url:r05q3pze]

              Comment

              • Taigu
                Blue Mountain White Clouds Hermitage Priest
                • Aug 2008
                • 2710

                Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                Yes Taylor, it is fine as you can read from my Bolg on the Nyohoe kesa, http://nyohoekesa.blogspot.com/2006_03_01_archive.html:

                In order to make a seven stripes kesa and if your Chu is 43cm:
                Length of kesa is 123cm and its width 205cm
                Length of the small dandyaku is 23 cm
                Length of the big dandyaku is 40 cm

                You will need to cut: :

                5 patches A: 37cm/35cm
                (Width 23+6+6+2= 37
                Length 23+4+6+2= 35)

                5 patches B: 37cm/54cm

                5 patches C: 37cm/52 cm

                2 patches D: 35cm/35cm

                2 patches E: 35cm/54cm

                2 patches F: 35 cm/52 cm

                frame: 2 long stripes: 207 cm/ 6 cm
                2 long stripes: 125 cm/6 cm

                4 squares: 6cm/6cm


                2 squares: 10cm/10cm

                ties: 2 long stripes 42cm/4 cm
                1 long stripe 72cm/4 cm

                I generally add an extra cm to every measurement, just in case... I leave it up to you.

                You may also put the kettle on...

                And it is great to collect fabric. Make sure the fabric you collect is not too old, otherwise it will be endless mending for the years to come.

                gassho


                Taigu

                Comment

                • Taylor
                  Member
                  • May 2010
                  • 388

                  Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                  Originally posted by Taigu
                  Yes Taylor, it is fine as you can read from my Bolg on the Nyohoe kesa, http://nyohoekesa.blogspot.com/2006_03_01_archive.html:

                  And it is great to collect fabric. Make sure the fabric you collect is not too old, otherwise it will be endless mending for the years to come.

                  gassho


                  Taigu
                  AH HA! Reading, yes... one of those things that one must do from time to time ops:
                  Gassho,
                  Myoken
                  [url:r05q3pze]http://staresatwalls.blogspot.com/[/url:r05q3pze]

                  Comment

                  • Myozan Kodo
                    Friend of Treeleaf
                    • May 2010
                    • 1901

                    Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                    Dear Taigu and other sewing friends. I have a question about sewing the Kesa frame that maybe someone can offer me some advice on.

                    I have my seven stripes sewn together and am ready for the frame. Is my understanding correct that the Kesa frame folds over the front of the Kesa only? That the back has no frame folded over it?

                    I suppose after sewing a few Rakusu I expect the frame to fold over the front AND the back of the Kesa, rather than just over the front.

                    Because I'm a little dumb I find it hard to follow the instructions!

                    Deep bows and thanks for the solidarity,

                    Soen

                    Comment

                    • Shohei
                      Member
                      • Oct 2007
                      • 2854

                      Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                      Originally posted by soendoshin
                      Dear Taigu and other sewing friends. I have a question about sewing the Kesa frame that maybe someone can offer me some advice on.

                      I have my seven stripes sewn together and am ready for the frame. Is my understanding correct that the Kesa frame folds over the front of the Kesa only? That the back has no frame folded over it?

                      I suppose after sewing a few Rakusu I expect the frame to fold over the front AND the back of the Kesa, rather than just over the front.

                      Because I'm a little dumb I find it hard to follow the instructions!

                      Deep bows and thanks for the solidarity,

                      Soen
                      Hi Soen
                      Yes that is correct. You attach the frame on the back of the kesa, lining up the the back, folded over edge of your seam allowance on the en (frame) lined up with outer line you marked for the frame.

                      I recommend putting that outer line on the Back side of the kagami (kesa body) too so its easy to line your en up with. Sewing on the the frame, sew through the fold (do not open the fold and inside) the nice side of the stitch will be on the front of the frame and the less nice(?) side will show on the front of the kesa...when you fold the frame over to the front it will hide the less nice side and the back of the kesa will have no stitches showing for that outer most line only... also gives you a nice clean edge , I will post a pic in a few hours when i get home from work if you'd like.
                      I will help how i can... my words are a bit awkward at times so if need be skype is available too

                      Gassho
                      Shohei

                      ** edit this may help too!


                      Attached files

                      Comment

                      • Jinyu
                        Member
                        • May 2009
                        • 768

                        Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                        Wow! I was sure that the frame was fold and sewn on exactly like we do for the rakusu! :shock:
                        Thanks for asking Soen and thanks for answering Shohei!

                        gassho,
                        Luis-Jinyu

                        edit:
                        I just remember that there is the amazing blog on kesa sewing (where would we be without it!).
                        It is true that a printable version of it would be great, I don't even think of a video version like we have for rakusu (but Oh my G.. think at all the work it implies!).
                        But with the blog, Katagiri's book and all the talented sewers we get here, I imagine it is possible to "get there"!
                        Here is the adress for those who haven't it:


                        And here is the part on putting the frame... (I'm not there I'm still assembling stripes... and I think I made a mistake with the measurments... so I'm good to do it all again... nevermind --> good practice!).

                        Now comes the trickiest part. In order to put together the frame or border and the body of the kesa you’ll need patience and may be personal guidance. I will try to make it as clear as possible.


                        Take the long stripes or cuts of 207 cm / 6 cm. Draw a line at 1 cm from the edge for the fold. Draw another line at 4 cm from this previous line.

                        Put the folded frame on the back of the kesa and sew the top line. Do the same with the 2 other frames and sew them too. You end up with two frames sewn on the back of the kesa as shown on the picture.


                        You now have to draw a line on both parts of the frame on the front of the kesa at about 4 cm from the angle. Draw a diagonal line as shown on the picture. Leave 1 extra cm and cut the extra fabric.



                        You just have to fold the fabric as shown on the picture making sure that the length part of the frame overlaps the width.



                        You may then sew the middle line and the first line. The outer line is already sewn, it was on the back, as you moved the frame on the front it is now showing.


                        That's it! hope it helps you!
                        But if Shohei can show us some pics from his kesa it would probably be even better!

                        gassho,
                        Luis-Jinyu
                        Jinyu aka Luis aka Silly guy from Brussels

                        Comment

                        • Myozan Kodo
                          Friend of Treeleaf
                          • May 2010
                          • 1901

                          Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                          Thank you so much Shohei and Luis-Jinyu (for the transmission of knowledge!). It is much clearer now. It is hard to picture without a finished Kesa in front of you.

                          Luis-Jinyu: I've been using Taigu's blog too. It is great. But even with that, it can be hard to picture the process sometimes. Especially for an impractical oaf like myself!

                          Shohei: a picture would be great and much appreciaated. You must be finishing up working on your ordination Kesa at this stage?

                          Deep bows,

                          Soen

                          Comment

                          • Dosho
                            Member
                            • Jun 2008
                            • 5784

                            Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                            Soen,

                            I have nothing to add to what Shohei and Luis have already said, but thought I'd post since I'm only just slightly ahead of where you are and am just now attaching the 4th strip of the frame pieces to the back. So, it wasn't long ago that I was saying pretty much the same thing as you are now. And once you get the 1st piece going it will start to make more sense...trust me.

                            Gassho,
                            Dosho

                            Comment

                            • Myozan Kodo
                              Friend of Treeleaf
                              • May 2010
                              • 1901

                              Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                              Dosho, thank you for the words of encouragement. Good luck with your sewing too. I'd love to see some pictures when it's all done.

                              Gassho,

                              Soen

                              Comment

                              • Taigu
                                Blue Mountain White Clouds Hermitage Priest
                                • Aug 2008
                                • 2710

                                Re: Kesa OKESA, it is about time!

                                Hi Soen,

                                Don t hesitate to post some pics of the frame so we can confirm you got it right.

                                As soon as I am back to Japan, I shall do my best to make q new written kesa course available on line.


                                gassho


                                Taigu

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